mk6 metering solonoid repair.....or bodge!!!!!!!with pics.

[winterheating]

05 swb low roof 100pstddi

starter just died on me, full off diesel leaking from metering solonoid

so ive just took it off, may aswell use as an experiment.

resonator and intake off



metering solonoid in between 4 injector pipes, will also clean inlet and head out now





underneath was dry as a bone begining of week as i changed filter and put new oil pressure sensor on, you can see where the plug has been swinging side to side on filter housing.





solonoid locking nut screwed out. using speciall tool, damn forgot to take pic of special tool



this is the bugger, wires cut but plastic coating slid off one wire and other snapped inside solonoid




right, took cap off that seams to be sealed by a sealant, piled in over connections and everything. picked all old stuff out, it was defo leaking from behind this as the sealant ozzes with diesel as its prodded




thers a plastic clip to hold wires tight where they exit cap. small bit on right.



pic makes it look a bit off a mess. all sealant picked out just plastic left, new wires soldered in place



i undone the centre torx bolt, then the plastic would lift but decided to not go any further as there was no need.



piled some instant gasket in the cap and pressesd it back on



wiped clean and will leave it over night



i would of thought this cap is sealed on in this way to stop water ingress and not stop the diesel from coming out
but it only takes 15mins to stripp it off again

[ake]

Did it work

[winterheating]

left it a couple of days so sealant would go off.

tried it tonight, and suprise suprise ..........it p*ssed out but sealant was still wet inside though.

took a metering solonoid off a scrap pump i have, (allthough i dont know whats wrong with that pump ).

will have to give it tow start in morning now cos batterys flat.

[winterheating]

removed solonoid off a vp30 with last digits .............4012
and put it on the 05 pump with last digits ................4004

now pump dosent even want to pull diesel throgh at all

so have put the solonoid back onto the earlier ...........4012 pump and am going to virginalise it and swap whole pump,
im hoping the old serial no. pump will work with newer van.

[Grenadekid]

worth a try mate if there was some way of getting air into the solonoid to help the sealer go off it might have been a success or maybe leaving it on a radiator in the house for 3 or 4 days

[Dan T]

removed solonoid off a vp30 with last digits .............4012
and put it on the 05 pump with last digits ................4004

now pump dosent even want to pull diesel throgh at all

so have put the solonoid back onto the earlier ...........4012 pump and am going to virginalise it and swap whole pump,
im hoping the old serial no. pump will work with newer van.

The solenoids vary with pump number.

[Frag]

I`d try and avoid tow starting also knowing what timing chain/tensioners are like.

Know of a FWD that bust the head after trying to tow start it.......

[winterheating]

all done, up an running.

pump virginalised for £40,

thought id take engine cover off to change chain tensioner also, aND take some pics but cameras packed in.

egr exhaust pipe removed completly, intake was full of sludge, also head, all cleaned out now.

and fresh oil and filter.

and decat while i was on.

so the ........4012 pump is ok with the newer van.

maybe if i used stikoflex to bodge the old solonoid and left it a week it would of been ok thats the only thing i can think of that goes off right through pretty quick

[martynx]

Brill pix & guide for quite a common problem mate ,.. & with that solenoid costing near 200 quid you were right to try & repair it,,

With 1400 bar in some parts of the pump - some kinda resin that sets real hard may have done it... araldite maybe ?

[winterheating]

cheers martyn

yeah araldite is solid stuff never thought of that.

the scrap pump cost me £100, but looked pretty new so thats why i bought it, the place that virginalisedf it also checked the module for faults, and said there where none, so thats why ive took the chance with fitting it.
they think that if the pump came from an 85ps it would make the van go like an 85ps now,because they said the module is set up for different powers but surely the different powered injectors need slightly differentr pressures cos of different sized nozzles, so the different PCM's would tell FIP what to do
its fired up ok but havnt drove it yet....

[martynx]

pump was a bargain man & as far as i know the PCM is the boss , like you said.. with the 85 & 100 pumps being the same rating pressure wise..

The proof will be in the driving of course , let us know how it goes... they must have some good knowledge to be checking the module out etc - are they a bosch service centre ?

[winterheating]

I`d try and avoid tow starting also knowing what timing chain/tensioners are like.

Know of a FWD that bust the head after trying to tow start it.......

yeah i got a good booster pack to start it

[winterheating]

after i got the van running a couple of weeks ago kept trying it every day for a little run,
even though have decatted it and cleaned an 1" layer of sludge from intake the power is the same as before

after just a day it would not start off the key only on a sniff, just like afew people are having probs with this week.

so the last few days have checked timing again, changed fuel filter, checked for air in fuel, allready new starter, checked battery, checked all connections fuses and relays, checked compression and wiring harness near pump, also checked for damaged rockers.

then today was going to check oil pressure then remembered i had used 5/40 fully synthetic to top up after fuel pump change.

so drained oil and cleaned out filter bowl, always has a bit of sludge in bottom of these, new filter and 5w/30 semi in, give it a spray and went to crank it like normal but it started instantly
let it run round and topped up, kept checking it and it starts instantly now, all cos of oil.

[Dan T]

after i got the van running a couple of weeks ago kept trying it every day for a little run,
even though have decatted it and cleaned an 1" layer of sludge from intake the power is the same as before

after just a day it would not start off the key only on a sniff, just like afew people are having probs with this week.

so the last few days have checked timing again, changed fuel filter, checked for air in fuel, allready new starter, checked battery, checked all connections fuses and relays, checked compression and wiring harness near pump, also checked for damaged rockers.

then today was going to check oil pressure then remembered i had used 5/40 fully synthetic to top up after fuel pump change.

so drained oil and cleaned out filter bowl, always has a bit of sludge in bottom of these, new filter and 5w/30 semi in, give it a spray and went to crank it like normal but it started instantly
let it run round and topped up, kept checking it and it starts instantly now, all cos of oil.

This is interesting. As you know i've had a couple of vans with the same problems recently and theres been lots of people on here with identical problems over the past 2 weeks.
How did it run once started ? was it reving up as normal or was it slower ?

[winterheating]

i was thinking it could have something to do with the older pump fitted thats why i asked you if youd expwerienced any of them swaps. but it was ok to start with so sort of ruelled that out.


it was revving up fine but had turbo lag feel when setting off under load.

now is totally different today as soon as oil changed, pulls fine from idle.

i know theres a lot too oil, as for additives, quality and burning vapour, but not too sure on the whole semi v fully thing.

and the oil can be changed for colder/hotter climates, so could also be linked to a bad hot engine start

and deteriated oil would prob cause same symptoms.