Rust Proofing

[lordcakes]

I am in the process of buying a low mileage Mk 5, 2000 SWB (ex BT 120). The bodywork is very clean, same for underneath.

Given the number of rusty transits out there seemingly caused by chips, thin steel and paintwork, what would be a good method of rustproofing now.

I am unsure about using underseal as there have been lots of comments about it trapping water.

I want to protect the floor and chassis members now to prolong the period before I have to buy a welder.

Any suggestions???

[MrMPuk]

Have a read of this http://fordtransit.org/forum/viewtopic. ... 99&start=0

[lordcakes]

Must admit, my old man has used Waxoyl for years and swears by it. I have used underseal on several cars and they always look good, but is the mtal good underneath or the the black goo just making the rust look good??

Found this website, http://www.rustmaster.co.uk which makes reasonable claims but seems expensive for 4 hours work.

[MrMPuk]

Far cheaper to do it yourself, you don't even need a compressor. I've always done it with the pump up plant sprayers.

[100ps_drw_hicube]

if you want a nice smooth finish buy a cheap degreaser gun for the compressor or just use a schutz gun?? (spelling)

[MrMPuk]

Smooth finish? If you use clear instead of Black Cam you don't see it!

[100ps_drw_hicube]

exactly then i cant see where i have been and where i havent and i dont get as messy thats part of the fun

[Ollie]

Waxoyl is great stuff, it allways helps to warm it up first, but its pretty good for the money. If cash where no object Dinitrol is good but it comes in small pots and they cost!
Underseal is a minefield, traditionally people mean a bitumous paste like stuff which is plastered underneath, this hardens with age and cracks, with the water than being trapped beneath... however if you get the underside nice and clean and dry you can just sprar waxoyl directly onto it, it seeps into the seams and any existing surface rust and at least slows it down,
They also amke a waxoyl based schultz which is applied witha gun, this seems to remain flexible far longer than the traditional products, and judging by the difficulty I have getting it from my hair its pretty water resistant.... normal cheap schultz is often just a spray on traditional gunge and just as useless, except that you can cover more quicker without being aware of its poor adhesion

[madmark]

waxoil is about as good as you will get ,for the money ,

[linus]

In two days my new mk7 will arrive (i promise to put some pictures, i am already very proud of it
, and as the underside of the car is not completely covered with some rust protection i want to waxoil it immediatly (the dealer said any anti rust intervention will mean no guaranty on future rustproblems but as somebody already mentioned doing nothing is a bad option).
So i got two questions: 1. As waxoil is very sticky wil it not collect lots of dust and dirt ?
2. Is the original waxoyl the one and only , or do the other brands the job just as good ?

Sorry for my bad english, i hope you understood the questions.
Thanks,
Linus

[LSi]

Sorry to bump an old thread like, but when I get my new Mk5 I'll be giving it the treatment to ensure my MIG stays unworked for some time!

The front arches are starting to go on it and there's a bit of rust on the tailgate, I can fix the tailgate up by rubbing it back, treating it with kurust and etch priming and painting it back up again. The arches will no doubt need replacing at some point since I'd say it's taken hold, and any treatment would be more slowing the process down than stopping it in it's tracks.

I do want to get to work on the chassis though, the plan is to jetwash the van underneath when I get it back (providing this nice weather holds out so it drys quickly enough) get it up on the ramps and get underneath with a wire brush and die grinder, pull as much of the old underseal off as I can and then absolutly cake the thing in underseal. If I see any patches of rust underneath that look like they might go somewhere I'll dose it in kurust before applying the underseal.

That much I know about, but what about the inside of the box sections? I've searched and read that waxoyl can be injected into the box sections, but where are the points that waxoil should be injected to? Is it a simple case of lift the ply lining and I'll see some plastic bungs there that open up the top access into the chassis box sections?

[Ford Sprung Van Tastik!!]

I always use old engine oil never had any problems, and its cheap
An old boy told me this 35 +yrs ago when I was an apprentice and have used it ever since.
He said cars never rust where theres oil about...just look at the floor by the gearbox

[dumper]

I thats why i allways use gearoil u can not beat it

[LSi]

What, so just empty old engine oil into my chassis?!

It's going to leak from somewhere, I can't drive round in an oil sieve

[Teamidris]

I was very dissapointed when my landrover rotted from the inside, as I had spent a lot of time painting the outside of the chassis (when I was supoosed to be revising for school exams). So from then on I have used waxoil, both black and clear. To apply it I found neither a hand pump sprayer or a compressed air oil gun would apply it well, even when hot. So I combined the two with a garden sprayer piped to the pick up pipe of an oil gun. (You need a tap though or the waxoil just keeps coming out). It gives a much better spray pattern of waxoil both inside and outside the chasis.
The transit stumped me though. I have the chassis cab and it had a metal strip spot welded into the bottom inside of the chassis rails. Rust had worked its way between the two parts, so the bottom of the rails had to be replaced. Waxoil had not pentrated the joint, even with yerly applications inside and out. With this in mind I turned to oil for the inacessible spot weld joints. Using an oil can, I have fended off rust from the doors and front wheel arches on a vehicle which was made in 1991.
Last week I tried a mixture of waxoil and engine oil. Its much thinner, which I hope will get into more of the hidden joints. It did rain oil on me while I was doing the job, but I was suprised how little finished up on the drive

I think the rule is;
If its rust free, waxoil will protect it really well and keep it that way.
If its light rust, waxoil will slow it down given yearly applications.
If its heavy rust, it needs to come off, be treated, painted an waxoiled.
If its internal chassis rust, then its oil, as its the only one that gets sucked into rust.

I wonder about using 'duck oil', or any of the really light 'non evaporating' oil? I have used old engine oil in the past, but its dirty stuff. Bearing in mind the cost of welding, why not squirt on new cheap engine oil or gear oil?