Tools required - small ish screwdriver, and spanner or what ever your coil uses to connect wires to terminals.
Step ONE, remove cap and put somewhere safe.

Step TWO, remove Rotor Arm, again put somewhere safe. or better still, up rate to a red one from Accuspark!

Step THREE, remove the 3 small screws holding the points and condenser. DONT DROP EM! put aside safe.
remove the points , condenser and any wiring still attahed. put aside. should leave you with this...

Step FOUR, now we need to free the wire going through the plate. on a Pinto you can wiggle out of the gap but on the Essex there are 2 tiny screws that need to be loosened or removed and CAREFULLY LIFT PLATE and remove wiring.leave screws loose or out and safe
Step FIVE, open your packet, it should contain :- new pickup, wiring, magnetic ring and some heat transfer compound. also a tiny zip tie, which i discarded as it chaffe's on the mechanism!
Now the new kit fits where the condenser went. Dont panic if this doesnt make sense, as the screw holes will only line up in one place. basically NOT where the points were!
first thing to do is get the little plug off of the wires from the new item. there are tiny catches that lock the contacts into the plug. tweezers or similar bends to release with a tug!


now feed the two wires AND the grommet through the same hole as original wires, leave slack in distributor, but bend catches and re fit plug now, using other bit of wiring as guide for what wire going where... loosely refit the 2 screws in the top plate too. this allows for final adjustments !


Step SIX, wearing gloves cos its messy, carefully open the heat transfer compound stuff, rip as close to edge as poss not in center... Now TOTALLY cover the base of the new pickup. like this ...

Step SEVEN, we now need to position the pickup- REMEMBER its going to the condenser s old position! screw down loosely. Loosely re route wiring to below the rotor shaft- the advance twists this way.

Step EIGHT, remember that old condenser? i ripped the tag off it and bastardised a wire holder cos on the last one of these i did in the pinto the zip tie seemed inadequate as theres only tapped holes and tight corners against metal there. screwing down a metal plate seemed better! wires will need a bit of extra mechanical protection so i wrapped a bit of insulation tape round the area that might wear... screw the rolled/bent metal around so wires are held within, screw hole left from points is a good a place as any to fit plate to.


Step NINE, pick up the plastic magnetic ring and examine it. there is a top side and a bottom side . you can see the flat top side here... Carefully place on rotor shaft, might need a slight twist and push to get it fully home.
THERE SHOULD BE NO CONTACT WITH PICKUP this is why we didnt tighten up screws yet!


Step TEN, Tighten all screws that you removed and refit the Rotor arm. It will only go on one way round, and if the spring on top is limp and not standing proud, if strong enough not to break try lifting slightly. Up rated red ones are £5 on ebay from Accuspark tho!!! If its pitted be a good time to replace. otherwise electronic ignition wont perform as it should.
BEFORE you refit the distributor cap, check inside - look at the state of the brass terminals- does it need replacing????
Now refit Cap, check clips are secured and vacuum pipe still connected(if applicable).
Step ELEVEN, final step.... your old dizzy had only one wire from it to the (-) negative terminal of the coil. the new kit has 2 wires. dont panic!!
Basically you now connect the BLACK wire of new kit to the (-) negative terminal of the ignition coil. i had to extend my wires but the old stuff provided some of what was needed!
The RED wire (extended as required) literally goes straight to the (+) positive terminal of the coil. ENSURE EXISTING WIRE STAYS CONNECTED TO THE COIL (+) AS WELL AS YOUR NEW RED WIRE. this terminal is the only one with 2 wires on it...
HAVE YOU TIGHTENED EVERYTHING AND REMOVED YOUR TOOLS FROM UNDER THE BONNET??????
All done??? KEYS IN, TURN HER ON! should be bang on and not need adjustment if you were happy before.
any fine tuning can be done by loosening dizzy locking bolt and twisting dizzy with engine running either way til it sounds best and revs up happiest, whilst still ticking over well on idle...
ANY PROBS PM ME!!


