Yet another sliding door

[WarthogARJ]

Hi inmates,
Have Mk7 Transit FWD 2013.
Sliding door nfg due to 2 of 3 contact pins broken.
Struggled to remove the item: was pop rivetted.
Have new replacement, will try to refit with rivnuts, but hard to re-algn: very hard to access it.

But other issue is latch assembly was stuck.
Got used replacement, but arrived jammed as well.
As did the NEXT one....
Have a 3rd one that fun ctions manually.

But even with the wiring connectred by jumpers from the main wiring harness, cannot get the unit to function properly consistently with the key fob.
I've measured the voltages on the pins/wires, and I get 12v on all three at various stages (unllock, llock, double-lock) so the wires in the harness are OK.
But the system doesn't seem to work consistently.

See attached table.

Screenshot 2025-12-25 at 14.25.32.png

The wire colour of the actual van wires doesnt' match the Haynes manual schematic.

Haynes.png

But I am sure the pin numbers are right: are labelled on the motor unit.

When I test the motor unit disconnected, with jumpers connecting it to wiring harness I get following (in attached).

When I press "Unlock" on the fob, the unit extends....but not ALWAYS. Sometimes it just jerks.
Pin 6 12v, Pin 1 and 2 both gnd (either connected together, or on their own).

"Locked" sometimes retracts, but again, not always. Sometimes only jerks.
Pin 1 12v, Pins 2 and 6 both gnd.

"Double lock" it sometimes retracts, but as above, not always.
Pin 6 12V, Pin 1 and 2 both gnd.

I've re-checked, because "unlock" and "doiuble lock" are SAME wrt voltages on pins: Pin 6 is 12v in BOTH cases.
That seems wrong.
Unlock TENDS to extend, and Double-Lock tends to retract.
I've re-checked, same both times.

It doesn't seem to make sense to try to fit the electrical contact fingers until I can get it to function check properly.

Have tried it with various motor/solenoid units: both with ones off the used units, as well as with a new unit.

Is hard to know what the issue is because I don't have a wiring diagram I can trust.
Nor what the pin voltages SHOULD be when the key fob is used.

An earlier poster said the info was inconsistent.
viewtopic.php?t=186060
See attached.

v8dave.png

Ideas?
Thanks,
Alan

[trnx]

There are posts re Motorcraft web page on the forum and internet.
Put US for country - NOT UK.
If you happen to have put UK go to the private view on your browser. Firefox go to the top rhs click on the 3 bars select - New private window - then go to motorcraft etc and put in US for country.
You pay - time to look, for a period.
Could use Active presenter which can video the screen - need to know how to use it, resolution can be reduced.
Can use SNIP but resolution can be lessened. Can use screen capture same thing but with snip can choose an area of the screen. Both screen images.
Could set up a camcorder - need to clean the screen and be all steady etc.

2013 is in the group of transits Mk 7 2011 to 2014 E5. The group of Mk7s 2006 to 2011 are not the same these are E4. Some units shall be the same but one needs the relevant info'/experience to determine that which is the same and which is different.

Watch youtube:
RMS diagnostics sometimes shows Alldata on big screen and sometimes works on transits.
Diagnostic Dan. Diagnosdan, Pine hollow diagnostics. South Maine auto. Eric the car guy. Usually explain what they are doing as they go along sometimes with diags.
With the youtube stuff it is hit or miss.
With Hayes it is what they think it could be.
There's very little electrical/electronic info' that I've found re' E5 transits - likely cause the only source needs to be paid for and one needs the means to record it.

Sometimes info' re' units used on Transits can be found on the manufacturer of the unit's web page.

But even with the wiring connectred by jumpers from the main wiring harness, cannot get the unit to function properly consistently with the key fob.
I've measured the voltages on the pins/wires, and I get 12v on all three at various stages (unllock, llock, double-lock) so the wires in the harness are OK.
But the system doesn't seem to work consistently.

In FORSCAN is a choice of how the doors/indicators/alarm work. May need to ask what the choices mean.
The van I have when first got it had lots of weird things happening. Did not find info' re' doors etc.
Eventually got it to lock with the key in the drivers door - lock unlock the side doors and back door and passenger door manually. Alarm beeps if - only - the passenger door is not locked when locking the drivers door with the key.

[andz327]

New pads and pins for side door aren't that expensive around £20-£30 for each, but the actual mechanism for sliding door costs a fortune, there's a part inside the mechanism that wears and I've tried to no avail and just got 2nd hand as a new one is upwards of £300 tell tale sign for it is if you shove on the outside around the lock area and it locks/unlocks and the pads and pins are good then it's replacement time for mechanism

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