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Non-turbo 190 Performance..

Transit Mk3, 4 & 5(smiley front) Forum. All Transits 1986 - 2000

Postby gazza » Sat Apr 22, 2006 2:53 pm

you read crystal balls? i think i would keep looking at simple stuff, brakes binding? what sort of miles has it done? if its done alot with the egr all connected it will be full of shite in the inlet manifold/ports, do a search on EGR valve and go from there
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Postby tractive-effort » Sun Apr 23, 2006 9:58 am

98000 with all mot's to prove!! EGR?? 'Exhaust Gas Recirculation'?? Please explain how this affects performance?? I noted this morning that the thin piece of steel tubing between the exhaust manifold and the (inlet??) has a hole in the concertina piece and is blowing badly. No doubt this will affect it's pulling power somewhat!?! :(
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Postby gazza » Sun Apr 23, 2006 12:32 pm

http://fordtransit.org/forum/viewtopic. ... ght=#25394

look at my post at the bottom of the page
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Postby tractive-effort » Sun Apr 23, 2006 3:19 pm

Now that's very interesting!! I took off the upper part of my inlet manifold and it was caked in black, jelly-like shite. I now have it in a petrol bath (bit extreme I know!) and it is decoking nicely. I am considering disconnecting the totally unneccessary EGR system as you did, but how did you blank off the hole in the exhaust manifold that the connecting pipe bolts too?? Or did you just leave this attached??
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Postby tractive-effort » Sun Apr 23, 2006 7:53 pm

Sorry to be a pain, but even with the butterfly valve fully open and the connecting rod removed, the fact is it's still taking exhaust gases from the manifold and chucking it in with the inlet air. How did you prevent this from happening?? A fine idea, but not sure I have fully understood - sorry to be a pain :oops: :?:
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Postby jay » Sun Apr 23, 2006 7:54 pm

cut a bit of metal to fit the hole..
mk1 connect tourneo
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Postby gazza » Sun Apr 23, 2006 8:51 pm

s
tractive-effort wrote:Sorry to be a pain, but even with the butterfly valve fully open and the connecting rod removed, the fact is it's still taking exhaust gases from the manifold and chucking it in with the inlet air. How did you prevent this from happening?? A fine idea, but not sure I have fully understood - sorry to be a pain :oops: :?:


the valve works on the partial vacuum in the inlet manifold, bung up the 4 rubber pipes and there is then no vacuum operating the valve. you can block off the valve at the inlet side with a bit of tin cut to size as suggested. make sure you repair the leak in the pipe from the exhaust manifold though :wink: also the leak off rail is a very worth while mod
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Postby tractive-effort » Sun Apr 23, 2006 10:11 pm

Rather than do that I think I will probably just stitch weld a plate over the hole in the exhaust manifold.. What do ya reckon??
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Postby MarkM » Mon Apr 24, 2006 12:40 pm

tractive-effort wrote:Rather than do that I think I will probably just stitch weld a plate over the hole in the exhaust manifold.. What do ya reckon??


Not a good idea as if the engine fails an emissions test you will have no way of reversing the modification, plates and bungs are reversable. I haven't done any of the blocking off and the lack of smoke is getting lower and lower, again I didn't remove the big pipe work to clean it out as it has got to be cleaner over time judging by the exhaust smoke. But both methods work, how much better one works over the other ? Up to you to decide as afterall Fords decided that they needed to include the EGR system but older engines didn't have it.

My How To Thread
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Postby tractive-effort » Mon Apr 24, 2006 10:11 pm

Well, finished the mod today - capped off all the vac pipes, put a piece of tin in between the inlet manifold and the exhaust connecting pipe, cable-tied the butterfly valve open, modified the crankase breather pipe on the oil filler cap and blanked off the reciever on the inlet manifold, scrapped all the shite from the inlet's..............and.......................no noticeable difference!! Yup, she still does a mere 50-55 mph on the flat, though she does accelerate better at high RPM (very high as usual). So, I'll be concentrating on the injection pump from tomorrow.. Thanks for the advice though, I'm sure when I get whatever is causing it sorted, then she will really pull better!! You never know eh..........either that or I could just buy a Sprinter............ :wink: (never, just my little joke!!!) :roll:
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Postby tractive-effort » Tue Apr 25, 2006 2:06 pm

Well I found the problem ( a mechanic friend did anyway!) It was in the diaphragm piece on the top of the injector pump - there's a little piston that travels up and down that responds with the load on the engine. Bosch put out a mod on these a few years back apparently due to the qualities of low-sulphur fuel causing the piston to seize in it's cylinder. The modified one is of a more durable material apparently and with this fitted it has literally transformed the van (along with the EGR valve mod too no doubt). My mate says there can't be many smiley front 2.5di Transit's around that HAVEN'T had this mod done....
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Postby Guy88 » Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:07 pm

can this be checked without altering the pump. i might have a look at our 80
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Postby tractive-effort » Tue Apr 25, 2006 10:29 pm

Yep, just a case of taking the top of the pump off in situ (no modding needed) and replacing one part with another. The top of the pump has a cap fitted over the nut that takes the top off - when the mod is done it is (apparently) normal practice to leave the cap off so that you can see the new nut fitted, thus indicating the mod has been done. Not saying all garages adopted this as normal procedure, but if your van is suffering from poor performance in the mid-range (especially on hills!) you can bet it will probably be that...
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Postby Guy88 » Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:01 pm

i will have a look then it is extremly poor on hills down to 40-50mph.

anyone got a diagram of the bosch pump as it is the same on a lot of other engines and it would be nice to have one
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Postby tractive-effort » Fri Apr 28, 2006 10:41 pm

I've been reading all the problems people have had/been having with the electronically controlled 'EPIC' pumps. To me - with the exception of the electronics - the two pumps look the same (manual and electronic). The diaphragm that contains the actuator on the top (the problem I had on my DI pump) looks the same type as on the turbo version. There are probably more parallels to be drawn between the two than most suspect. 'Limp home mode' 50(ish) flat out, sounds just the same as what I suffered on mine....shoot me down in flames, but I've had more probs with the naturally aspirated version than the turbo (even though I only owned the latter for a mere 6 months). Is the problem not mechanical as opposed to solid-state....????
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